The boat rollers not rolling and instead dragging show an issue with the roller wheel. You can either work with grease to free the movement of the wheel or you can replace the wheel. If you have roller bunks, you either will want to replace the wheel # DL203228 or the entire roller bunk # DL21754.
If you have wobble wheels then # DL21564 or # YR530R-8P are the replacement to consider based on size. view full answer...
Towing a trailer with another trailer can be tricky, and this practice is not legal in all states and provinces.
The problem is that for any towed trailer to handle well, its tongue weight (TW) needs to be right around 12-15% of the trailer gross weight. But when your boat trailer's tongue weight is pressing down on the rear of the 5th wheel trailer, it will reduce that trailer's TW. Things get complicated here because typically a power boat trailer has lowish TW since the motor sits... view full answer...
It sounds like you have a leak in the system either in a brake line or at the actual wheel cylinder. If this is the case, you may not have to replace the entire hub or brake assembly, just the part that is leaking. A leak can also draw air into the system and cause the brakes to lock. My theory is that it is the wheel cylinder on that one side.
After you inspect the brakes and find the culprit, make sure that you bleed the braking system. There are vacuum type systems that you can use... view full answer...
Boat trailers are notorious for swaying because most boats carry all the weight at the rear with the motor, gas tanks, battery, etc. Here are several things you can do.
Adding weight to the front of the boat should provide fairly dramatic improvement. Any heavier gear you're carrying in the tow vehicle that you can move to the trailer, do so.
You'll also want to make sure the trailer's being towed level. If it's more than 2 or so inches high or low at the tongue, it can contribute to... view full answer...
It sounds like you have surge brakes on your EZ Loader Duel axle trailer for your 1989 Bayliner. If your brakes are locking up when trying to move forward, it sounds like there is a mechanical error happening and it is most likely happening in the coupler. Something like a sticking piston in the wheel cylinder keeping pressure on the brake shoes or a plunger in the master cylinder that is not releasing.
There is a shock like the # T2336200 in the coupler to help the coupler return to position... view full answer...
In a tandem towing application, meaning pulling one trailer with another trailer, sway is common. If you happen to have a bass boat, which is much heavier in the rear due to the engine's weight, the sway problem will be especially noticeable. Any trailer tows best when it has the right amount of tongue weight (TW), which is generally 12 to 14-percent of its gross weight (GVWR).
Most hitches mounted on 5th wheels will NOT be rated for use with a weight distribution system. To use one of... view full answer...
We will start off with the presumption that the trailer is new, its suspension is in good order and that it is properly rated for the boat's weight. In this case you should not experience the tires contacting the inside of the wheel wells when you drive over a speed bump, nor at any other time.
This kind of issue can happen when the tire size on the trailer is changed to one of a larger overall diameter. Larger tires reduce the available clearance for the normal suspension travel of most... view full answer...
Since you mention that you're getting 12v power at the vehicle connector, then the issue is likely with the trailer.
What you're going to want to do is, make sure the wiring for your trailer is in good working order, and also that your grounds are on a clean bare metal surface.
Additionally, if you notice any signs of corrosion on the connector, you'll want to clean the connector out and apply some dielectric grease # 11755. view full answer...
It sounds like the 7-Way # A7WCB on your new boat trailer is hooked up incorrectly. Since The Curt 5th Wheel/Gooseneck Custom Wiring Harness # C56000 only tee's into the existing wiring this is the only logical explanation. You will need to check the wiring on the boat trailer and either correct the wiring at the 7-way or the junction box on the trailer. If all the wiring is in the correct space you will then need to check the wiring for any shorts that would cause the wiring to back feed... view full answer...
With your boat trailer, removing the actuator would not have caused the brakes to apply. It sounds like there is a mis-adjustment with the assembly due to either the springs or adjuster spacer not engaging correctly. I assume the lack of pressure in the wheel cylinder likely meant shifting of the brake shoes and causing misalignment. I recommend removing the hub and then removing the brake shoes, springs, and adjuster. This will remove any braking issues causing rubbing/grinding. I... view full answer...
If you are going to back your trailer in the water while it is still connected to the tow vehicle, you will need it to be waterproof. Whether or not it is water proof depends on the trailer, the construction, how it is wired, and if the taillight housings are waterproof.
You can use shrink tubing, a good amount of electrical tape, or Liquid Electrical Tape, # SWC50122, to help keep out moisture where wires are connected or exposed. To avoid a short or other damage, you should always disconnect... view full answer...
I would start troubleshooting with the capacity of your trailer axles and the total weight of your boat, trailer and contents when loaded and ready to travel. Make sure the fuel is topped off and all your normal contents are in the boat. Take the loaded rig to a local scale and have it weighed. When weighing, unhitch the boat trailer on the scale and make sure the vehicle is pulled off of the scale.
Once you have the loaded weight of the boat you can verify that the trailer axle capacities... view full answer...
One of the most popular hydraulic Titan actuators is the Model 6. If you can find a part number stamped on the actuator or found on a sticker (and send me some photos) I can help you identify what you have.
As far as the brakes locking up goes, you probably have a brake that is adjusted too much and you need to back it off using a Brake Adjustment Spoon # W80630. You'll want to adjust the brakes so the wheel can freely spin but it also has some drag. Since you only have this happening... view full answer...
The main reason for them breaking off is because there is too much torque on them or from having them to loose which then can create movement and eventually cause them to break. It is hard to say if the hard angle is making it to where your lugs break because of the amount of pressure being put on them.
Another possibility could be a reduction in the clamp force. This could be caused by rust or dirt. It is recommended to use a wire brush to remove any rust or dirt present on the mating... view full answer...
The electric lockout doesn't do anything to the actuator itself, it is a solenoid that doesn't let the fluid pressurize to case the wheel cylinder or brake caliper to engage. The coupler not returning to the forward location has more to do with the Replacement Shock Absorber Spring Kit for Titan/UFP Brake Actuators # TK71-758-00.
If you want to use the manual key, it won't be an issue. view full answer...
Reverse lockout solenoids will have two wires as you have seen. One wire is grounded to the trailer and one wire is attached to a reverse light wire coming from the tow vehicle. On most lockout solenoids it does not matter which wire is grounded and which wire is connected to the reverse light wire.
Since I am not sure what solenoid you are using or how old it is, I recommend tracing both wires as far as you can. The ground wire should be attached to the frame somewhere on the trailer.... view full answer...
When you get wear just in the center tread of a tire that does indicate that the tire is over-inflated.
You want to make sure the tires are inflated to the max psi listed on the sidewall of the tires. Over-inflation would cause the wear and then could lead to the failure issues you are having.
If you jack up a side of the trailer do the wheels turn easily without any in/out or tilting movement? If so, the bearing are fine. view full answer...
Many things can cause uneven tire wear, including a bent axle, an overloaded trailer, and worn or broken suspension components.
A trailer axle should be slightly arched, with the high spot in the center of the trailer and the spindles on either end being slightly lower. When the trailer is loaded the arch will flatten, placing the trailer tire treads in full contact with the road surface. A damaged axle may place the outside edge of the tires in greater contact with the road, rather than... view full answer...
If there are brakes installed on your boat trailer (or any trailer for that matter) then it is always best to have brakes installed on all of the axles. I believe that you have diagnosed your problem exactly and that your one set of brakes is having to work extra hard so they are wearing out quickly.
If you could let me know what the weight capacity is of your axles along with the bolt pattern of your wheels, inner bearing, outer bearing, and grease seal part numbers, I can see what we... view full answer...
Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors like # BB1781 have a spring loaded pressure in their design. There are times that this pressure will cause a failing seal to leak and high altitudes would be another aspect that could cause leaking to happen. When using Bearing Buddy Protectors, I recommend at minimum using a double lipped seal but the manufacturer also has a special seal for some spindle measurements like the Spindle Grease Seal Set for LM67048 Inner Bearing and 1.781 Bearing Buddy # BB60007. view full answer...
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